Mt. Victoria (3464m)
Climbing route description and topo
By Darren DeRidder
Mt. Victoria, South Summit, South-East Ridge
Alpine Grade II
Map 82 N/8 Lake Louise
A classic alpine ridge climb, suited to short-roping technique. Very knife edged
in places, a spectacular climb.
References: Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Sean Dougherty
Mt. Victoria is located within Banff National Park near Lake Louise. The mountain is often seen from the Chateau at Lake Louise, positioned at the far end of the lake. From this viewpoint, Mt. Lefroy is situated on the left side. Between Mt. Lefroy and Mt. Victoria, the Death Trap runs up to the Abbot Pass, not visible from the Lake.
The south ridge is the normal route on the mountain. Access to the ridge is from the Abbot Pass. It is not advisable to climb the Death Trap to Abbot Pass. Abbot Pass is reached via Lake O'Hara. Lake O'Hara is on the opposite side of Mt. Victoria as Lake Louise. Drive west along the Trans Canada from Lake Louise for about twenty minutes until signs direct you to the Lake O'Hara parking area. Pull in and catch a Parks Canada bus to Lake O'Hara. Cars are not allowed past this point. There are three or four buses daily. Reservations can be made by phoning Parks Canada. Alternatively it is usually possible to buy tickets from the ranger at the parking area before the bus departs. Phone Parks Canada for the schedule.
From Lake O'Hara, Abbot Pass can be reached in three hours by strong hikers. Take the well maintained trail to Lake Oesa, then take a breather, for the going is about to get tough.
On the left side of lake Oesa a fainter trail climbs up rocky slopes to gain a long steep scree slope. This slope is ascended laboriously to the top, which is Abbot Pass. At the top of the pass sits the Abbot Pass hut, operated by the Alpine Club of Canada.
Most parties stay in the hut. Reservations are required and may be made only by ACC members. It is easy to become a member and make reservations. Contact the ACC main clubhouse in Canmore for information.
The climb may take from 6 to 10 hours round trip from the pass. Start as early as possible. First follow
the faint trail past the outhouse to the rock headwall. Climb up a short section of rock.
Continue up the talus-covered slope on the east side of the ridge looking for faint tracks.
There are two small mushroom-shaped rock towers which the route passes between.
The route then gains the ridge about 200m above the Abbot Pass.
Once on the ridge continue along to the "sickle", a low dip in the ridge. Here the snow may be very knife edged. Pass the sickle and continue to a big rock step. Contrary to the guidebook it is better to climb up this rock step and stay on the ridge than to pass the step on the right. Look for an easy chimney which takes you simply to the top of the rock step, then continue along the ridge over rock and snow.
Just before the summit cross a precarious section of very knife-edged snow ridge. Some people even straddle the ridge and scoot across on their bums. Try not to do this unless you want mountaineering hemmorhoids.
The summit is easily gained from this point. Return the same way you came, unless opting for the Huber Glacier descent, described in the guidebook.
Crampons, ice axe, and rope are needed for this climb. There is not much protection so short-roping is practiced. Wend the rope amongst the rock protrusions as you climb. In sections snow belays are easily set up using the ice axe for hesitant climbers.
There is accomodation at Lake Louise at the Alpine Center Youth Hostel/ACC facility. At Lake O'Hara there is a campground operated by Parks Canada, an ACC hut which is usually booked up, and an expensive lodge. For overnight stays backcountry permits are required and yes, unfortunately this includes ACC members who use the ACC facilities. They can be purchased at the same time as buying bus tickets from the ranger.