Canadian Rockies Mountaineering
Mt. Temple (3543m)
Climbing route description and topo
By Darren DeRidder
Mt. Temple, South-East Ridge
Alpine Grade I
Map 82 N/8 Lake Louise
A popular scramble, with little or no technical difficulty. Long scree
slopes lead to fabulous views.
References: Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, Sean Dougherty
Mt. Temple is one of the big peaks along the Bow Valley corridor near Lake Louise. From the town of Lake Louise this peak is easy to see and it always attracts attention with it's sheer, imposing north face and glacier-capped summit. Mt. Temple is close to Moraine Lake and the Valley of the Ten Peaks. The start of this climb is Moraine Lake. The climb can easily be done in a day but an early start is wise.
From Lake Louise townsite drive up towards Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. Take the turn-off to Moraine Lake and follow it all the way to Moraine Lake. From the parking lot, walk past the lodge and the boathouse on the trail which contours around the right-hand side of the lake. Take the trail for Sentinel Pass. The trail is well marked and quite popular. Continue up the switchbacking trail, gaining height for about an hour before the gradient eases off a little. Continue up to the cirque between Mt. Temple on the right and Pinnacle Mountain on the left. There are two small lakes here, and the trail passes between these lakes and up towards Sentinel Pass, a saddle between the two peaks. Climb the switchbacks up to the top of the pass.
Follow
the faint path up from the pass, keeping on the right side of the ridge
and watching for cairns. Pass beneath a rock step on the right and continue
up scree slopes, then break through a rock band on the right by way of
an easy notch. Climb up more scree. There will likely be a snowpatch. Climb
up this to the top, where it enters a chimney in the rock band above. It
is a good idea to bring an ice axe. Climb up the short, easy chimney taking
care not to fall here. Once above this, climb the long scree summit ridge
directly to the top. Be aware that in some places the snow on the ridge
may be heavily corniced and unsafe, so stay clear of the edges.
The descent is the by the same route you just climbed up. From the snowpatch it is possible to work your way down the wide scree bowl which drops all the way to the cirque instead of going back to Sentinel Pass and then down. With sturdy boots you can "scree ski" on the lower sections and glissade down the lower snowpatches.
Although the climb is technically easy and is do-able by anyone in good physical condition, people have stuffed it up on this route, even experienced climbers. Watch your step around the snowpatch and the chimney.
Take an ice axe along for the snow patch on this route. Although it is not absolutely necessary, it will make things a lot easier. No rope or protection is needed for the climb. The route is in good condition for climbing during the summer, but be prepared for mountain weather. There is a Parks Canada office in Lake Louise which can provide weather reports and information on climbing conditions in the area.
The Alpine Center in Lake Louise is a joint venture of the Alpine Club of Canada and the International Youth Hostel Association. Members of either group can stay at the facility. Non members can get rooms at a higher price. Accomodation is mainly dorm-style in rooms that sleep six. The facility is one of the best of its kind anywhere, and the Bill Peyto Cafe inside is THE spot for good grub and a relaxed atmosphere in Lake Louise. The facilities include a laundry room, kitchens, an indoor sauna, and large decks with tables for fair weather outside eating. There is also a Guides Room for ACC members and for evening slideshows.